Geist is in everyone’s mouth these days. So, naturally it was next on my to-do list for the cold, rainy and sad Copenhagen winter time.
Yes, Geist is wanna-be overclass with its front row location on one of Copenhagen’s main squares, with the all handsome waiters and waitresses standing to greet you at the door and taking your coat, with the sound of thunderstorm and rain washing down in the designer bathrooms and with the clientele name dropping big company names. BUT (!) chef Bo Bech greeted and welcomed us heartily when we entered the restaurant and we had our seats at the food bar overlooking the kitchen all night.
1. Foie Gras with thinly sliced cauliflower
2. Bo’s fantastic bread and salty Danish butter (Bo Bech actually used to have a bakery shop just around the corner of this restaurant were he sold nothing but one type of sourdough bread. It was like the bread rolls at Geist: crunchy yet moist in the middle and it kept for days. I used o buy it for dinner and toast a slice for breakfast the next day if any was left. I think the bakery was closed because Bo became busy with Geist, the shop itself has been taken over by Meyer who now has his second bakery shop there.)
3.Steak tartare of veal and tuna (!) with fresh figs (despite the mince meat-kind-of-presentation this dish was extremely delicate and full of flavour)
4.Coal baked venison and beet root
5.North Sea turbot filet with fennel filled cheese ravioli (yes, the ravioli are made of cheese, not pasta)
6. An hommage to the Danish Christmas dessert classic Ris álà mande (rice pudding with vanilla, whipped cream and almonds): icy cold rice pudding topped with the juice-pouches of the pomelo fruit and a hint of cinnamon
It was wonderful to look at hustling and bustling the controlled way. It seemed like the chefs were an well orchestrated ballet anticipating each other’s every step and movement. Meat coming in from the left, sauce from the right and swoop– the waiter is already gone with the plate. So if you are interested in the cooking and want to see what you don’t get, the food bar is the optimal choice of placement. The menu claims not to have any starters, mains and desserts- you are supposed to shop around and have a little of this and a little of that. It was hard to choose but we also took vivid part in the meal of our neighbours at the bar when interrogating them: “how is the lamb’s heart?” “how are the oysters?” Not something to be seen everyday on a menu.
This experience was a five truffle dogs out of five! A must do when you come to Copenhagen!