Restaurant Relæ

Since restaurant Relæ opened in August 2010 it has been on the top of my to-do list. Not on the “I need some good and hearty food”- list but on the “I want to be inspired without paying a fortune”-list.  Relæ is situated in Copenhagen’s more alternative area. Having El Bulli and Noma on his resume co-founder and chef Christian F. Puglisi sets high expectations in the minds of his guests. Mine were fulfilled.
At Relæ you will find a take it or leave it menu. You can either have meat or no meat, two menus, that’s it. It is good that we are not to picky… Here is the meat menu:

For starters we had pickled skate on celery with a mussel/parsley cream or dressing which was very intense in taste and colour while the fish was very delicate and subtle.

This one was my favourite: marabel potato finely sliced so it looks like spaghetti and rolled up in a bunch, seaweed and pecorino sauce. How can something with no visible sign of cheese (nothing runny or crumbly in this dish!) taste so intensly of pecorino?

Beautiful soft meat: or is tongue of veal actually meat?Here with grilled sauce, some creamy not too fishy anchovy and fine slices of scorzonera.

Mandarin, buttermilk and egg yolk. I saw the lady at the table next to us mixing this dessert up on her plate right from the beginning which did not do it any good look-wise. The combination was very pleasant though and well harmonised; the egg yolk adding just that creamy touch to the acidic milk and the citrus fruit which gave the whole thing a taste like Zabaione.

This is definitely not feel good cooking but I appreciated every single dish for its’ creative twist and the successful combination of ingredients. The atmosphere in the restaurant is quite laid back; no table clothes, knife, fork and spoon were to be found in a drawer beneath the wooden table and the tables were placed quite closely together which gives the whole room a cafeteria feeling. The service was varying, some dishes were speedily served by a guy merely mumbling the ingredients, the wine on the other hand was knowledgably presented. I must say though, however laid back (and thereby cheaper than the usual upscale restaurants in town) a place chooses to be, I never appreciate getting the bill without having asked for it and being asked for tips by the credit card machine. Unfortunately this last impression remains but for the food I will definitely come back.

Find Relæ on my googlemap of Copenhagen

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